The Ham Nomads

2 Sep 2015. <DE> Heidelberg —

Today, back into Heidelberg. The plan for today was to start off with a coffee at Galeria Kaufhof, then walk down to the bridge over the Neckar we had crossed on the bus, where it looked like a good photo opportunity, Then to walk along the Neckar, cross back up to Hauptstraße to Universitätsplatz, look at the University Library building, then go round the corner to the Jesuit Church. From here, down to the Old Bridge — last time we were here, the towers were covered in scaffolding — and then slowly back along Hauptstraße to Bismarkplatz and the Galeria Kaufhof for lunch. Last time we were here, we noticed the Deutsches Verpackungs Museum (The German Museum of Packaging), but it was closed that day. This time, on the way back, we were going to check it out properly! Then, back to the van and make our way out, hopefully finding a vendor of CampinGaz. And so we did!

Galeria Kaufhof has an external glass lift, which we found to be much quicker up and down than taking the escalators inside!

The houses on the northern side of the Neckar are lovely old buildings, most photogenic.

We made our way back up to Universitätsplatz and the Library ...

The heavens were putting on
a magnificent display!

... and then round the corner to Jesuitenkirche (the Jesuit Church). Last time we were here, the new organ was in the process of being built. Today we found it in all its glory. This 18th century Baroque church was never completed, in that its intended Baroque interior never came to be. This, in one way, is to its benefit — the current white finish with restrained Baroque detailing (as in the capitals of the columns) is very much to modern taste. And the new organ, with its modern design, continues the restrained feel of the place.

Then, down to the Alte Brücke (the Old Bridge). There are a few places where the inevitable love locks can be attached, but not many. There is a pillar on the northern riverbank, however, that is replete with them!

We explored the bridge, from which we watched a tour boat going upstream, passing beneath the castle and into the lock to the side of the weir that blocks the river slightly upstream of us. We watched as the changing patterns of sunlight played across the castle, making it a photographer's dream.

At one end of the bridge is the Old Monkey of Heidelberg (aka the bridge mandrill). With its mirror stretched out, the monkey mocks his viewer by showing him his own face. Beside the monkey there is a bronze plaque with Martin Zeiller's mocking poem (from his 1632 work Itinerarium Germaniae) ...

Was thustu mich hie angaffen?
Hastu nicht gesehen den alten Affen
Zu Heydelberg / sich dich hin unnd her /
Da findestu wol meines gleichen mehr.

Why are you gaping at me like that?
Haven't you seen the old monkey of Heidelberg?
Look about you — Maybe then you'll find more like me.

Then we walked back along Hauptstraße, past the Haus zum Ritter we saw yesterday.

We turned back up into Universitätsplatz and beyond it to the Hexenturm (the Witches' Tower). This used to be part of the old city wall, but is now a war memorial attached to the University buildings (which can be entered through the base of the tower). This tower was the site of witch trials in the 15th century, and carries a memorial plaque to all those who met an undeserved and untimely end at the hands of the Catholic Church.

Back along Hauptstraße, past the "House of the Giant" (so named for the statue high above the door), opposite a statue of a famous Heidelberg resident, Robert Wilhelm Bunsen, one of the pioneers of spectroscopy, without which our knowledge of the composition of the stars would not have come about. He is also famed as the inventor of the Bunsen Burner, familiar to all chemistry students!

We found the Deutsches Verpackungs Museum, but it wasn't to open until 1pm, so we went back into Bismarkplatz and Galeria Kaufhof for a bite to eat. In front of Galeria Kaufhof is a rather strange statue, by Viktor Dulger, Den Bürger von Stad gestiftet, dated 1985. Also in the square we came across a delightful trio of locals, out campaigning for the WWF, who absolutely insisted on having their photo taken!

Then we went back to the Deutsches Verpackungs Museum, which gives the history of packaging with a peculiarly German slant. We found a couple of familiar brands — Persil and Nivea Cream — and saw the way these have been packaged over time. There was a predominance of cigarette and cigar packaging, and of chocolate and coffee, perfumes and household goods. They had early forms of paper and card packaging, of ceramic and glassware, of tin and plastic. A huge collection of old cigar boxes, some very rare, took over one room almost to its entirety. When you add to this what we saw of the packing of matches in Jönköping, we must say we've had a reasonable education into the subject of packaging!

We left the Packaging Museum and walked back to the bus. On the way, we passed one of innumerable Brezel (Pretzel) shops — and the queue for the freshly-baked delicacy attested to its popularity!

Back to the bus and back to the van, and out. We drove out southwards, and found a camping supplier who — Hallelujah! — sold CampinGaz in the cylinders we were using. Freshly supplied with gas — and newly confident that we would be able to continue cooking and heating water for tea and coffee — we pushed on, towards Neuschwanstein Castle.

A police vehicle with a difference!

We finally came to a halt about 14km short of Pforzheim, in a truckies' stop on the A8. We shared it with truck after truck. We had originally pulled in to a spot about half-way along, but when a group of Romanian truckies asked us nicely if we mightn't like to move up to the head of the queue, where we could squeeze in but they couldn't, we moved forwards. Turned out to be a comfortable stop, and we had a nice chat with our new Romanian friends!

Distance driven — today, 49 miles ( 79 km ); to date, 27,455 miles ( 44,185 km )