We said yesterday that the trip to the Atomium was a good choice. Well, today it proved itself again. We went back, parked near the Atomium, and walked across to the Heysel Metro station, just past Mini-Europe, that took us straight into the city of Brussels. How easy can you get?
On the way in to the station, we were walking through parklands. A whole road had been closed off, and a circus was setting up — the big top was in the early stages of being hoisted on its poles. Onward past the past the Atomium and past the 1935 Palais des Expositions.
We took the train in to the Gare du Midi, where we changed for the line that took us the three stations up to the Bourse, where we got out to start our exploration.
We walked past the Bourse and straight into the Grand-Place. This magnificent square dates back to the 12th century, but the buildings we see now mainly date from the rebuilding after the armies of Louis XIV destroyed it in the bombardment of 1695. The magnificent Gothic Hôtel de Ville (the Town Hall) is justifiably famous with its 294 19th-century statues all round its exterior, and the 96 metre tower dating back to about 1449, topped with a statue of St Michael, the patron saint of the city.
Opposite the Town Hall is the King's House, rebuilt in Gothic style in 1874 after the earlier building was totally destroyed by fire. It never housed a king, but was where the taxes to the King of Spain were collected in the 16th century. It now houses the Town Museum.
Our wandering for the day brings us back to this square, so we will leave the description of the other buildings until our return.
It was getting near lunch time, so we looked about for somewhere to eat. Stopped in at one cafe, but they didn't seem in any hurry to serve us, so we left and went across the street to 'Belgian Frites'. We have found that 'French fries' is a bit of a misnomer — the Belgians eat more of the things per capita than any other people, and they apparently originated here. It's a similar story for chocolate — the average Belgian consumes 8 kg of chocolate each year. So we decided to do the Belgian thing, and have frites for lunch. Not particularly nutritious, but it hit the spot, washed down with the usual hot caffeine concoction!
We then started walking. The first thing we found was a little shop/museum all about Tintin, the comics of the Belgian cartoonist Hergé. They had everything Tintin you could imagine — including framed proof copies of the very earliest publications.
Then we walked across to the Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, a magnificent 19th century glazed shopping arcade. The shops inside are rather prestigious, but there are numerous chocolatiers represented! Half-way through, there is a discontinuity, where you leave the Galerie de la Reine, pass under a colonnade where the Rue des Bouchers crosses the galleries, and enter the Galerie du Roi (which goes off at a slightly different angle).
Having traversed the Galleries, we went up the hill to the Cathedral of Saints Michael and Gudula, built in the two and a half centuries from 1226. The pulpit is a magnificent piece of carving, but the subject matter could be a little disturbing — Death skulking around the corner, and Adam and Eve being expelled from the Garden!
From here we made our way to Brussels Park, a lovely green space that leads down to the Royal Palace.
Then we went round to Place Royale. This square is dominated by the Church of Saint Jacques-sur-Coudenberg, in front of which is an equestrian statue of Godfrey of Bouillon setting off for the first Crusade on 1096.
Looking from here down Rue de la Régence we could see the dome of the Palais de Justice, currently wrapped in scaffolding as renovation work is carried out.
We turned generally towards Grand-Place, passing on the way a piece of the old city walls, and turning down through some of the old streets of Brussels.
We were walking down Rue de l'Étuve, nearing the turn up towards the Grand-Place, when we noticed a large group of tourists. We were about to come upon Brussels' most famous little man. Today he had been dressed in a pink ribbon outfit in support of breast cancer. This was apparently the 938th costume in the extensive wardrobe of Mannekin Pis!
Walking back towards the Grand-Place, we passed even more waffle shops and chocolatiers — the Belgians really know how to eat! And who needs a rubber duckie when you can have a chocolate one?
Back in the Grand-Place, we found that the sun had moved to a point where the gilding on some of the old buildings was being picked out beautifully. At the northern end of the square are the Houses of the corporations, the old guild halls. At the southern end is the House of the Dukes of Brabant, named for the 19 busts of the Dukes of Brabant decorating the base of the first-floor pilasters. The facade encompasses six separate houses, some of which were also Guildhalls.
We walked out towards the Bourse station, crossing Place de la Bourse, in which a guitarist was busking. He was so good, he had drawn a large crowd, and was getting applause each time he stopped.
We took the Metro back to Heysel, and as we walked back to the van we noticed the circus people had succeeded in raising the Big Top!
After a delightful day in Brussels, we decided to set ourselves up for Waterloo tomorrow. We drove out, towards a campsite we had found through the Campercontact site on the internet — the Camping Caravaning Club Brussels, or 3CB (it is also known as R.3.C.B., but the 'Royal' seems to have been dropped from the name), in the little town of Wezembeek. We had a little trouble finding it, until a local flagged us down and led the way. We had actually found it earlier, but had not recognised it. We found a boom gate with a message on it that reservations can be made by phone. That didn't help us, so Warren walked down the driveway and into the clubhouse, where he was virtually welcomed with open arms. They were so friendly and obliging — and the campsite itself is so very well set up — that we really must recommend that any travellers keep the place in mind!
Distance driven — today, 36 miles ( 58 km ); to date, 29,240 miles ( 47,058 km )
This looked to be Aan esciting and different sort of day for you, Yiu were good if you resisted the chocalatiers. Did you go to another circus? Anyway, keep happy together and travelling on. I have worked out a schedule based on Maria Gardeners suggestions and have decided to work solidly Mon-Fri and have strict 2 days off at weekends, Dvid's orders! to do chores and gardening, read for fun and dvd's/cds and entertaining g and gg children ettc Thoughts and prayers for you and the family. Lots of love, Cathy.
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