The Ham Nomads

8 Jul 2015. <RO> Alba Iulia; Sighişoara —

Today was another hot day. We went into Alba Iulia, a city with a long history, and which is central to the 20th century story of Romania. In Roman times, it was Apulum, and was the base of the 13th Legion. There are some remains of that Roman Castra still visible in the city — the new 'Principia' Museum displays a little bit of it. But the same site was used for two later 18th century fortresses, so much of the archaeology has been either destroyed, or has become inaccessible. But you can walk the 'Three Fortresses' path, and see the remains of all three of these military establishments.

Our intent was first to do the Three Fortresses walk. We accidentally got off the trail right at the outset, and instead walked up through the fortresses' stables, and then up to an old wooden church on top of the hill. Romania is famed for its wooden churches! The whole place was beautifully constructed and decorated in wood, although it was not open to the public — in fact, to tell the truth, we shouldn't have even been there! Behind the church was a little farmyard, guarded by the friendliest little puppy we've seen in a long time!

We walked the fortress, lingering in the shady spots and in the cool tunnel areas — did we mention that it was a stinking hot day!? — checking out the parts of the fortress that came from the 18th century. The place is huge, built in part by robbing the earlier Roman Castra, which is why so little of this latter remains. But it is a prime example of a baroque fortress in the Vauban star style.

There guns are not just for show — they are fired regularly

Alba Iulia was central to the establishment of the Kingdom of Greater Romania — it was here that union of Romania with Transylvania and other states was proclaimed on December 1, 1918. It was here that King Ferdinand and Queen Marie were crowned, in a new Romanian Orthodox cathedral built specially for the coronation.

The old city is right beside the fortress, and it is most picturesque. One thing that impressed us through the city was the modern statues. The city is dotted with life-sized bronze statues, some of Roman emperors and soldiers from its Roman past, some of soldiers who would have populated its fortresses, others simply showing everyday people going about their lives. Delightful. There is an earlier huge equestrian statue of Michael the Brave.

There is a large square, around which you find the University building and the Principia museum, and on the other side, hotels and restaurants. We were looking for a place to eat, but pizza wasn't a good idea for breakfast! So we walked out to the gate at the foot of the old Roman road leading from the square. We went out the gate and to a likely-looking restaurant out there — but it wouldn't open until midday, about 40 minutes away. So we explored the area outside the gate. Here we must point out that Alba Iulia has had huge funding for restoration of its historical monuments. The gate, for example, has been completely restored. The original statues from the gates are on display, some in a tunnel within the fortress, others in various museums. So what you see is a pristine replication of the gate in its prime. Well, even that's not exactly true — the gate dates back to Roman times, but it has been remodelled over the centuries. What we see today is its 17th-18th century state.

We then walked back up to the square, to the pizza restaurant we had found earlier. It was now approaching midday, so pizza was now an option. While we were sitting with our lunch, we heard the sound of a drum. From the road coming out of the fortress there appeared an old-time military parade, which turned into the street we were sitting on, marched past us and down beyond the two cathedrals, turned about, marched back past us and down to the plaza outside the gate we had just explored, and then turned back towards us, finally vanishing into the road where they first appeared.

This bas-relief is by the old Roman road.

Even guardsmen have to eat —
and perhaps chat up the winsome serving wenches!

Having had lunch, we wandered down and visited the two cathedrals.

The Orthodox Cathedral (left) and the Catholic Cathedral (right)

As in many Catholic cathedrals, the statues, as this pietà, are polychromed

The tomb of Ioan de Hunedoara (Hunyadi János, Johannes von Hunyad)
died 1456, venerated to his day!

Busts of Marie and Ferdinand before the Orthodox Cathedral

We then went down from the old city towards the newer part of town (but not getting there, as the heat of the day turned us back when we reached a park with fountains. We came back (slowly, wiltingly), and went into the Principia. This is a new museum set up on the site of the Principia (the headquarters building) of the old Roman Castra, and showing some of the archaeology of that site. The museum is new and, so far, not heavily visited, so when the guide saw us coming in, we got the most enthusiastic welcome. The guide was dressed as a Roman legionnaire, and he in fact was 'channeling' a specific person, a legionnaire from the Asian area of the Roman empire (modern-day Turkey). He commented that he got this role because he 'tans very easily'. A most knowledgeable chap, he was surprised when Warren showed more than a passing acquaintance with Roman antiquities. Another good reason fro taking our time in the Principia — it was air conditioned!

After this, at his suggestion, we went into the next-door building, where there was a free exhibition of Romanian gold and silver dating back into antiquity. To be perfectly honest, the interior architecture of the building was possible more interesting for us, but as there was a no-photography policy in that exhibition (because it was drawn from numerous collections around Romania), we have nothing to show you!

Flower boxes all along the road divider!

All kinds of slow traffic ...

... and they insist on their space on the road!

This derelict building was full of plant life!

Little shrines like this crop up everywhere!

One village had copper-ware for sale

We were behind this aggressive truckie
for some time, as he hooted everyone on the road
and claimed right of way over everyone
— but he met his match with this hay wagon
which was being manhandled across the road!

Anyway, after a wonderful day making the best of the hot conditions, we returned to the van and drove back to Sighişoara.

Distance driven — today, 97 miles ( 156 km ); to date, 23,753 miles ( 38,227 km )