Thursday, 25 July 2019

25 Jul 2019. <GB> Carlisle, England —

We went into the town centre, found the Visitor Information Center, and posted her postcards in the post-box outside, a replica of the first-ever roadside pillar box in the UK, set up in Carlisle 1853

We walked round to Carlisle Cathedral, the second smallest of England's ancient cathedrals. This is in part because its nave was cannibalised during the English Civil War, for stone to restore Carlisle Castle! This has left a cathedral whose design is unique, to say the least. The Choir has been made to double as choir and accommodation for the congregation.

The choir stalls are interesting in two ways. The ones around the edge are misericordiae, ornately carved seats with the express purpose of being so uncomfortable that the occupant could not fall asleep during the interminable services. The panels of the front few stalls are adorned with post-mediaeval carved graffiti. The official explanation of these, given to us by the canon of the cathedral, is that they were carved by the illiterate sons of the local merchants during the long latin services. Another theory is that they were carved by dissident recusant Catholics forced by law to make monthly appearances for Anglican Church services. Whatever the explanation, they are fascinating.

While Warren was chatting with the canon, he received a phone call from Suzie. The cathedral's fratry is in the process of renovation and, because this is where the toilets are, there are temporary ones set up outside. Suzie had got herself locked inside — she can honestly say she was enthroned at Carlisle Cathedral! With the assistance of three of the cathedral staff, she was finally extricated! We must point out that she was not the first to be trapped in this way!

We then went back into the town square, to the Guildhall, Carlisle's only medieval house, built in 1407 of timber, tile bricks and clay, by Richard of Redeness, who left the house to the community of Carlisle when he died. The Guildhall is one of Carlisle's oldest buildings and is Grade 1 Listed. It's only open for a few hours, one day per week — and today was the day! It's such a wonky building! — the floors, although sound, are nowhere near horizontal! Just for the record, it is still used as the guildhall by Carlisle's three remaining medieval guilds.

From here we went into the town square. There, in front of the Tourist Information Centre (as well as the pillarbox mentioned above) is the Market Cross, dating from 1682, an ionic column with a lion bearing the city's shield at the top, with sundials on all four sides just below it.


Also in the town square, just set up for the school holidays, was a carousel. The weather was warm, and the children were happily enjoying this treat.

Then some time in Tullie House, which has large and eclectic collections of zoological, botanical and geological material, as well as a collection of Pre-Raphaelite artists. But currently it was presenting the Fantastic Fairground Factory, an exhibition by the Cabaret Mechanical Theatre exploring the secrets of the fairground with exhibits designed to bemuse, baffle and bewilder.

After this, we were very near the castle, but as it was getting late we decided to postpone our visit there until the morrow.

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