The Ham Nomads

16 May 2015. <TR> Dalyan; Truva (Troy)

We left Dalyan and drove the 42 km north to Truva (Troy). On the way, we got more glimpses of Turkish highways, and paddy fields, and just getting on with life!

Then Troy. This is a substantial historic site, huge archaeology, but most of the artifacts have been removed to museums all round the world. But here you see the nitty-gritty of the archaeology. But, for the tourists, they have set up a large 'Trojan Horse' at the front of the site — never mind that it's very existence is dubious, it's good PR!

Part of the wall at the East Gate (Troia VI, 1800-1275 BC)

The ramp up to the city gate (Troia II, 2500-2200 BC)

The 'Sacred Precinct' (Troia VI, 1800-1275 BC, and up to Roman times)

South Gate (Troia VI, 1800-1275 BC)

Perverse as he is, Warren particularly wanted to see Schliemann's Trench. This trench, dug in 1870-71 by Heinrich Schliemann straight into the hill, 40 metres wide, 17 metres deep — all the way to the bedrock — although it brought to light large amounts of archeological material, totally destroyed the fragile relationships between those materials, the relationships that tell us so much more than the objects themselves. Nevertheless, Schliemann achieved his aim, which was to verify the actual historic existence of Troy. The fact that he dug through what was effectively at least nine separate cities, one above the other, and didn't recognise their historic relationship, meant nothing to him at the time (although, apparently, later on he recognised the error of his ways and adopted more scientific archaeological techniques). The Troy of Homer's Iliad is today considered to be Troy VIIa, about 1300-1190 BC. Because of the complexity of the site, there is no way you can see Homer's Troy, it can only be built up by careful analysis of the stratified layers of the site, the very layers that Schliemann treated in suce a cavalier manner. Luckily Schliemann destroyed only a part of the site, but we can only wonder how much more we would know about this fragile place if it was not for his raping of the site.

We discovered the difference between amphorae and pithoi.
Pithoi (as this) are large storage jars.
Amphorae are smaller transportation jars

We wandered the site of ancient Troy for a few hours. The day was hot, and by the time we got right round the site, we were more than ready for cold refreshments! The dogs that inhabit the site were just as lethargic. Have we mentioned the stray dogs everywhere in Turkey?

When we pulled up into the carpark, a gentleman on a motor-scooter pulled up to our van and suggested that we might like to camp the night at his campsite, only 800 metres down the road. We decided to take him up on his offer. Got there and, not much later, David and Carol pulled in! And, to add to the fun, a van full of youngsters from Tassie (with one Scottish ring-in) pulled in as well.

Our hosts

Distance driven — today, 27 miles ( 43 km ); to date, 20,333 miles ( 32,723 km )