The Ham Nomads

29 Jul 2014. <GB-SCT> Drumoak, Aberdeenshire; Montrose, Angus —

Today, because we had decided to return to Drum Castle to check out the chapel we had missed yesterday, we started off on a most leisurely way. Susie caught up on her journal, and went for a walk out upon Newmillhill. She came back laughing — from the top of the hill is a wonderful view of a caravan park with van after van laid out only inches apart — exactly the kind of living we are trying to avoid by finding out-of-the-way (or, sometimes, right-on-the-way) places to stop off at night. So we both went up the hill for the view!

We then went up to Drum Castle. When we went in to check if we needed tickets to get to see the chapel, and were waved away with a smile — that part of the property is wide open to the general public! This lovely little chapel was refurbished by the Irvine family in 1857, particularly by Anna Forbes Irvine in memory of her six-year-old son.

We then set off towards Kirriemuir, birthplace of James Barrie, of 'Peter Pan' fame. On the way, we saw that we were passing the House of Dun, a 17th century Georgian mansion designed and built by William Adam. The exterior was completed in 1730, but the keys were not handed over to the Erskines until 15 years later.

As we came up towards the house, we passed an imposing row of giant sequoias, planted when the tree was introduced to Britain in 1856.

The design of the house by Adam is fascinating. The ideal of symmetry is carried out, almost to ridiculous extremes. (Remember Fort George, also designed by the Adam family, another example of Georgian symmetry!) There are rooms, for example, which have four doors, the two on one side being fully functional, the two on the other, placed only for symmetry, open onto stone walls! Two of the lower windows in the front are in front of the solid stone wall of the kitchen — but from outside, the symmetry of the design is undisturbed!

The plasterwork in the saloon is amazing, having been created by Joseph Enzer, a Dutchman, who was paid £216 for it in 1742 — about 4 years before Culloden. There are Jacobean references in many of the works, but it appears that they were too subtle for the Erskines to be brought to task! One huge relief of the Roman god Mars has the Scottish lion appearing 'couchant guardant' — lying down, but on guard — and Mars himself is 'guardant' — on the alert — but with his foot on the English crown!

Lady Augusta is a most influential person in the history of this house. Lady Augusta Fitz-Clarence, one of the natural children of the Duke of Clarence (later King William IV) and the actress Mrs Jordan. In 1831 she was granted the rank and precedence of the daughter of a Marquess. There are numerous embroideries throughout the house done by her hand, and they are exquisite!

Outside is a lovely garden. The parterre on the south side has been restored to Lady Augusta's plan. There was a French girl in there, deadheading the roses. She was enthusiastic about the whole gardens — there are three gardeners fully employed, and three volunteers, of whom she was one.

After going round the house, we went on "Lady Augusta's Walk", a 1 km walk through the woodlands near the house. Partway round, Warren turned to where he heard a sound, and saw a red deer disappearing into the underbrush.

After this, we continued on our way towards Kirriemuir. We won't get there today, so we pulled off into a layby off the A90 highway, about half an hour short of our destination.

Distance driven — today, 62 miles ( 100 km ); to date, 5,249 miles ( 8,448 km )