The Ham Nomads

1 Jul 2014. <GB-NIR> Belfast —

Woke up in a secluded sylvan setting. We were going to go to Armagh to visit the final resting place of Brian Boru, but on second thoughts thought not to disturb him! Went instead to Belfast. The drive was most pleasant, along roads that could have simply been plucked from Victoria and planted here in Northern Ireland — but the fields were still green — not the emerald green we had been seeing before but, as the grasses are beginning to go to seed, a slightly yellower colour. Still beautiful!

On hitting Belfast, our first thought was where to park. On careful map reading, found the Cairnshill Park and Ride, a reasonable way out on the south side — but only 15 minutes by bus to the city at normal times, 25 minutes in peak-hour traffic. Sounded like a good thing. Was even better when we asked the security man (there's 24-hour security on the site) if there would be any objection to us making it our base for our 3-or-4-day stay here. He said we wouldn't be the first, and it was perfectly okay — so here we stay!!

Belfast Panorama

We went into the city to organize ourselves — first call to the Belfast Visitor Centre. Went to the address shown on our map — all closed and shuttered! Asked at the pharmacy next door, and they told us the Centre had moved a few yards round the corner. Surprised we had missed it as we came in that way, but we were obviously looking some other way. Went in and organized two three-day tourist passes, for £14 each — unlimited public transport, and discounts at many attractions (although the seniors' rates usually beat any such discounts). The one downer is that they kick in on the day you first use them, whatever time that is, and that whole day is counted. Other cities (like Heidelberg) have a 72-hour pass that is a genuine 72 hours, ending at the same time of day as you started using them. So we held off on using them until tomorrow — and so we may stay here an extra day, who knows!?

City Hall
on a sunny day

City Hall
Centenary Window

We had morning tea/lunch in the City Hall, a magnificent Victorian edifice.

City Hall Foyer

Belfast Titanic

Last ever photo of Titanic afloat

We then walked through the central city area and round to the Titanic Quarter, at the Docks, where we went into Belfast Titanic. This has to be one of the best audiovisual experiences we've ever been to — as good as, but different from, the Doctor Who Experience. The building itself is the same height as the hull of the Titanic, so as you approach it, it is somewhat daunting. It takes you through the whole history of Belfast, its industries, particularly its shipbuilding industry. Then it takes you almost rivet by rivet through the building of the Titanic, the commissioning of its crew, the loading of cargo, its sailing from Belfast to Southend to Cherbourg to Queenstown (previously Cove, and now Cobh) in the South of Ireland, before setting off on its ill-fated voyage.

Titanica
(statue outside Belfast Titanic)

It then goes through the disaster, and follows a number of passengers through the experience, many of whom died, some of whom (like Margaret Brown — the "Unsinkable" Molly Brown) survived, and then takes you through the newspaper reports, the inquests and their conclusions. It finally takes you through the search for the Titanic, with film of a dive down to the wreck, almost 4 km beneath the surface. An altogether sobering and unforgettable experience.

But we must end with the message written on the docks where she was built — "She was all right when she left here!"

By the time we left Belfast Titanic is was getting quite late — after 4.30, so we walked round the docks and back into town to find where to catch the bus back to Craigshill Park and Ride. Susie was fascinated by the bus trip, as we hurtled through streets avoiding parked cars (and not-so-parked cars) by millimetres, all at a breakneck speed. As we got out, Susie complimented the driver — who just smiled!

Distance driven — today, 71 miles ( 114 km ); to date, 3,495 miles ( 5,625 km )