The Ham Nomads

21 Jun 2014. <IE> Adare, & Limerick, & Roscrea, Co. Tipperary —

Woke up just outside Adare. Looked like summer clothes were in order for about the first time! Dropped into the Heritage Centre, did a little gift shopping. Ran into Sandra, our guide from 2 weeks ago. She was pleased to see us again, and we caught her up with a little of our travels. Not many of her clients are in Ireland for as long as we have been, so she was happy to hear that we've been enjoying ourselves and making the most of our time!

Well, after a day in limbo, we were keen to get on the road, so we got in the van and headed for points east. Our main target for this leg is Avoca, Co. Wicklow, but will tell you about this when we get there. We set our route to pick up a few more sites of interest.

Wall art near King John's Castle (better than graffiti!)

King John's Castle

First on the list was Limerick, and King John's Castle. Set our path for a sports ground near the castle, in the hopes of finding a park. Instead, just as we passed the castle itself, we saw a free carpark specifically for the castle. Pulled in, and were welcomed by the attendant, who said he didn't care what we did in there — cooked lunch, or whatever — so long as we were out by 5.30pm! Easy. Had a cuppa, then wandered across the road to the castle. This is a different kettle of fish to most of what we've seen before. Firstly, it is not an OPW site, but is run by Shannon Heritage. You may remember we had issues with the overcommercialisation of one of their sites before. This is much the same — a great place for kids, and for tourists with little knowledge of the backstory of the place. We shouldn't be too critical, as it is a really great educational experience, and its displays, many of which are interactive, are remarkably good. But Warren felt as if he was in a theme park, and never really warmed to the place! One other difference between this castle and others we have seen is that this one was military, not residential, so had no keep as such. The defensive part was the gatehouse, and within the curtain walls the layout of the buildings varied according to the needs of the time. There had been a large banquet hall at one time, and this is in the process of redevelopment. This site ties in to our explorations of the Battle of the Boyne, in that the defeated Jacobites retired to this castle, and were besieged by the Williamites in 1690/91, finally surrendering under the terms of the Treaty of Limerick.

High Cross

St Cronan's Church facade

We then set off cross-country, mainly on the highway across to Roscrea (Ros Cré). Here there is a multipart OPW site — Roscrea Castle & Damer House, Blackmill, St Cronan's Church and High Cross. There is also a Franciscan Friary, but we didn't get to see that. We got to the Damer House site at about 4pm. We were told that the Blackmill site closed at 4.30, and were advised to pop round there first. This site was a ruin until bought up by the local Council and renovated for display. The round tower, dating from the late 11th century, spent some time as an island in the Blackmill's millpond. Fortunately, it has been dried out, and the lower parts which must have suffered from their years of immersion, have been put to rights. The original St Cronan's Church, across Church Street which now cuts the old ecclesiastical site, is represented by only the western facade, but this facade is exquisite. It dates from the mid-12th century and may well have been influenced by Cormac's Chapel at Cashel. The high cross a few metres to its south is represented there by a replica. The original has been brought inside Blackmill for protection and display. Not in as good state of preservation as those at Monasterboice, it is still an interesting document of its time!

Roscrea Castle Main Hall

We then returned to Damer House and Roscrea Castle. The stone castle, dating from about 1280 is represented by its gatehouse and its walls. It was granted to the Butlers (remember the Butlers) in 1315, and remained in their hands until sold by the 2nd Duke of Ormond in 1703. The portcullis was rebuilt after the completion of archaeological investigations in the early 1990s, during which an oubliette (a dungeon accessible only via an opening in its roof) was found beneath the gatehouse. Damer House was constructed within the castle yard in 1720 by the Damer family, arguably the richest family in Ireland at the time. It is an early 18th-century town house. The place might well have been demolished but for a magnificent, ornately-carved, cantilevered timber staircase leading from the ground level to the next floor. Sorry, no photos were allowed.

Damer House

Damer House Walled Garden

Then cut southeast to Donaghmore, where there is a Famine Workhouse Museum. It was now well after 6pm on a Saturday, and it was closed until 2pm Sunday. Not worth waiting for, so we continued towards Carlow (our revised, slightly closer, destination for the day. Didn't get there — lovely picnic spot near Knockbaun (near Spink, on the R430, about 15k short of Carlow), and decided to pause there for the night.

Distance driven — today, 99 miles ( 159 km ); to date, 2,973 miles ( 4,785 km )