The Ham Nomads

03 Jun 2014. <IE> Kerry Ring, & Killarney, Co. Kerry —

Kenmare

Woke up outside the Staigue Fort. Weather hadn't improved, so decided not to go back up to the fort. Went on instead toward Sneem. A very pretty town, and if it was any closer to morning tea time or lunch time we would have spent some time there. As it turned out, we went on towards Kenmare (Neidin). Got there and the sun was poking out. We pulled our van in just at the start of the town square (actually a triangle!), where an empty spot just beckoned to us. Walked in to the main street, where a woman asked us what we were looking for. When we said "Well, the first thing is a Post Office" she chuckled and said that was where she was going. So we had a lively conversation about what Kenmare had to offer as we walked along the street to the post office.

Kenmare Stone Circle

Business done at the post office, we went looking for the places she had mentioned — the pier (just a little pier, but good views, including one of the second point of interest — the bridge), and then the Stone Circle, one of the few located in what is now a town or village! Then we dropped into the Tourist Information Office (just behind our van — don't know how we missed it!) for any further tips. They did recommend the Bonane Heritage Park, about 10km south of Kenmare. So we picked up sticks and went down there.

Susie at Bullaun Stone

Bonane didn't show up on the Garmin, nor did Bunane. It wasn't until we keyed in Killybunane that we hit paydirt. Town names in Ireland are somewhat of a moveable feast! Anyway, the Heritage Park consists of a walk of about 2km up a steepish hill and around seven archaeological sites, six prehistoric and one from the 1840s. The ringfort there is an earthen one, like Oswestry (but a lot smaller). There is a stone circle, one of the most significant in Ireland, having eight lunar and solar alignments. From there, round the circuit, you come to the remains of an 1840s Famine Cottage. Then there is a Fulacht Fiadh, a bronze age cooking pit. Following that in the circuit is a Bullaun Stone, a large flat-topped stone where a basin or bullaun has been carved out — its purpose is unclear, but is thought to be astrological. Then to a standing stone, not the largest we've seen, but still interesting. It's unusual to have so many significant sites in such close proximity, but it makes the whole thing very accessible.

From here, after about an hour, we drove back into Kenmare, where (because the weather had become bright and warm) we had promised each other an ice cream. We're in Ireland, so had to have a Bailey's ice cream — sheer luxury! On the way in, we had to pass a group of cyclists in uniform, with the outline of Ireland on their backs. Don't know if it was a competition or a club jaunt, but we had a little trouble passing them as they insisted on riding two-abreast on narrow carriageways.

Susie at Lady's View

'Let there be tourists...'

Our time in Kenmare done, we then lit out for Killarney again, to complete the Ring of Kerry. This stretch is through Moll's Gap, between Peakeen Mountain and Macgillycuddy's Reeks. I really don't know — the map clearly states "Road unsuitable for HGVs and buses", but the number of tour buses we we encountered was substantial. There are a number of really spectacular viewing points along this road. We would pull in at one, and a couple of minutes later a couple of buses would pull up and disgorge tourists all across the landscape! We had a few hold-ups on this stretch — each time we pulled up, the aforementioned cyclists would overtake us, and then we had to try to re-overtake them (easier said than done). Also, at one point, there are extensive roadworks, and they had a convoy regime in place, with a car leading all the vehicles one way (at a slow pace!), then turning about to lead the oncoming cars back over the same route.

One last comment about the Ring of Kerry — there are some rather serpentine roads (particularly if you drop off onto subsidiary rings, like the Skellig Ring), but almost the whole way round you keep coming onto views for which the most extreme superlatives seem somewhat inadequate. Well worth the trip, particularly if, like us, you can take your time over it!

Anyway, we are back "home" in Killarney. We've dropped into Tesco for supplies, then will adjourn to Macca's for email and blogging, then to Ross Castle to sleep the night. Tomorrow, Tralee (Trá Li).

Distance driven — today, 67 miles ( 108 km ); to date, 1,927 miles ( 3,102 km )