The Ham Nomads

05 Jun 2014. <IE> Tarbert, Co. Kerry; Foynes, & Askeaton, & Newcastle West, & Adare, Co. Limerick —

Thomas Dillon's arrest

Woke up outside Tarbert Bridewell. Too early to expect it to be open, so Susie went out for a walk. Came back to say that the site opened just after she went past it, half an hour earlier. So we went over and went in. The ladies running it were delightful. Unfortunately it was just after our breakfast, so too early to partake of a cuppa in their cafe. But we paid the reasonable fee to visit the Bridewell. Money very well spent! This site was bought by the community and renovated after years of neglect, and it is now a total credit to them all! The building is now sound, and has been repaired using appropriate techniques for the time. The whole downstairs exhibit traces one case, from arrest (for trespass — Thomas Dillon allowed his cows to enter a neighbour's land) through his imprisonment and trial. It also documents a couple of other cases, one a widow Mary McCarthy who stole to feed her baby and six other children — she was sentenced to transportation to Australia, and her baby died on the voyage while the other children ended up in a workhouse! The life-size models illustrating these cases are well made, and totally appropriate. Upstairs there is a history of the town as a port on the Shannon River, and the history of the restoration of the Bridewell. A totally enjoyable visit!

We then went on to Foynes, to the Foynes Flying Boat Museum. Did this in part because in the 1950s Warren remembers going to Grafton to watch the Sunderlands taking off and landing there. This, too, was a well-worth-while experience — a bit more expensive, at €9 each, but wouldn't have missed it for quids. Didn't know that Foyle was the original "airport" for transatlantic flights, used because it was almost the closest point in Ireland to New York, but also because the River Shannon at that point is wide, sheltered, and an ideal takeoff and landing point for the large flying boats of the 30s and 40s. Shannon Airport, which took over when land-based planes became viable, is only 16km further up the estuary on the other (County Clare) side.

The other thing that Foynes is famous for is Irish Coffee. Apparently it was the bright idea of one of the restaurant attendants at Foynes — he added a tot of Irish Whiskey to an espresso coffee, sugar, and poured cream gently into the top — and served it all up in a stemmed glass, not a cup. When asked by the surprised American experimental subject "Is this coffee Brazilian", he answered "No — this is Irish Coffee" — and a legend was born. Well, of course, Warren couldn't leave the museum/restaurant without having sampled this delicacy. (Not that he needed to, as on our first trip to Europe in late 1979 we got into the habit of warming up in the mornings with an Irish Coffee to start the day — "antifreeze", we called it! — and it took us six months after our return to wean ourselves off it!)

Went a little further eastwards, to Askeaton (Eas Géitine), which has an old friary or abbey. This is a ruin, but has been partly restored by the National Monuments and Historical Properties Service (not OPW). It is free entry, however. We had lunch outside and then went in. We were greeted by a frisky little dachshund pup, 7 months old, the companion of a monumental mason who was in there working on a new tombstone — the graveyard is still in full use! We wandered the grounds (pursued by the dog, who just wanted more patting), and simply enjoyed the day. The cloister is magic — but this time, no yew growing in the middle. We finally took our leave from the mason and his dog and went out to the van to have a 3pm lunch.

Askeaton Abbey

Then we went southwards, to Newcastle West (An Casléan Nua), where there is a Desmond Hall — we needed to get another postcard to send to Susie's Cousin Desmond. Another inspired idea! This is a delightful site, in the heart of the village, overlooking the market square (where there is a market twice a week). This is by guided tour only, but as we were the only two on the tour it turned into a friendly chat with the tour guide. We had a lovely time. The place is two parts of a 12th-16th century castle, that fell into disuse and disrepair after the fall of the Lords of Desmond in the 16th century. The "hall" is a renovated part of the old castle — not the keep, which is still in private hands and in disrepair, but part of the wall defences. Associated is another building — a movie theatre up to about 30 years ago, when it collapsed and revealed its real age. This has been partially repaired (but not roofed), and is the original Banqueting Hall. We spent a very enjoyable hour or so here, and then moved on.

We went into a supermarket on our way out of town, then went to Adare, about 20km towards Limerick. This town has a very well set up Heritage Centre, and a Castle — Desmond Castle — which is only accessible by bus tour from the Heritage Centre. As it is an OPW site, there will be no charge to us. So we have set ourselves up nearby for the night and will get in to the Centre by 10am for the tour!

This whole day, Susie has been commenting on the delights of driving Ireland (so long as she is not asked too often to drive "roads" where the van is scraped by vegetation on both sides, simultaneously. She loved driving alongside the Shannon! And the weather today, in spite of forecasts, has been perfect!

Distance driven — today, 59 miles ( 95 km ); to date, 2,050 miles ( 3,300 km )