The Ham Nomads

15 Jun 2014. <IE> Sligo, Co. Sligo; Boyle, Co. Roscommon, & Oldcastle, Co. Meath —

Sunday morning. Nothing much doing. We got ourselves moving, popped over to Dunnes for a quick shop, then decided on our next movements. We need to start moving towards Rathkeale, where the van is being worked on on Friday. Warren did a little thinking and came up with the idea that a driving tour near Dublin, round the Boyne Valley, comes as far east as Oldcastle, only 100 or so kilometres from Sligo, and can be left at Trim, about 200 or so kilometres from Rathkeale, with a number of interesting places between Trim and Rathkeale if we have time. So we started the trek.

Boyle Abbey Chancel

Boyle Abbey North Aisle

On the way, we noticed we would be passing Boyle (Mainistir na Búille), which has the OPW site Boyle Abbey. We stopped off. A most interesting site. A Cistercian abbey founded in 1161, it was substantially burned in 1555 after the dissolution of the monasteries under Henry VIII. From 1603 the site was given to Sir John King and his family, who held possession until the 19th century. In the 17th and 18th century it was used as a military barracks and was known as Boyle Castle. OPW are doing what they can to conserve the original abbey components, and the later military sections are being conserved but not so vigorously. What they have done with the abbey is to completely disassemble the northern arcade, which was in imminent danger of collapse, and totally rebuild it (like a giant 3-dimensional jigsaw, although with all the parts carefully numbered on disassembly to facilitate the final reassembly). The arcade had become the outer wall of the military establishment, and all the spaces had been filled in. This later addition has now been totally removed. One hidden benefit of the rebuilding is that each pillar now has a steel core to prevent any future structural degradation. And the north wall of the abbey had been demolished in the conversion from abbey to barracks, and instead of reconstructing it in stone, the decision was made to replace it with a timber and glass construction to reflect the original architecture, but not in any way to pretend that it was in fact original. Many people dislike this approach, but we really like this option in the presentation of older architectural sites. Warren noticed a model of a falcon in the northern aisle, and asked what was the motive — apparently they were having a lot of bird strikes on the glass panels until the model was put there as a "scarecrow".

The capitals of the columns forming the aisles are interesting, as many of them are individual, and represent things such as fighting cats (or dogs), four monks in a vineyard, fourteen human figures, and so on. A most impressive site, and a good example of what can be done with appropriate conservation techniques.

Susie climbing hill

Susie on Cairn

Warren at tomb

Tomb art

We continued on. A lot of pleasant driving, with little of particular note to report. We drove by a couple of Loughs (lakes), through a forest, and finally reached our destination of Oldcastle. Judicious enquiries in the town elicited directions to the Loughcrew Cairns, a neolithic burial site with passage tombs dating to 3000 BC, a couple of which contain very good examples of neolithic art. Well, a drive on a couple of back roads, up a country lane ("Do they really expect people to come this way?) and we arrived at the carpark which, surprisingly, after a most unprepossessing approach, was packed with cars. A hike up a spectacular hill, and with views of the countryside in all directions, we got to the top to find quite a few people and three OPW guides, who are up there every day of June-August. Everyone was talkative (after all, we are in Ireland, where it is a national pastime!) and we had a great time.

View from the top

We'll stay here tonight in the hope of visiting tomorrow a couple of associated sites which happen to be on private land ... let's hope the landowners are hospitable!

Distance driven — today, 107 miles ( 172 km ); to date, 2,599 miles ( 4,183 km )