The Ham Nomads

28 Sep 2014. <GB-ENG> Stourton, Wilts —

Okay. Still at Stourhead. We got ourselves moving early, and out for a "estate walk". We decided to do the "King Alfred's Tower Walk" — about 5½ miles, or about 2½ hours. This took us through woodlands, and through the Stourhead Western Estate — not actually National Trust, but run by the Hoare family, pioneering the use of Continuous Cover Forestry in the UK, avoiding clear felling, and replacing trees by natural regeneration. We noticed many trees with red ribbons or red paintspots, apparently scheduled for felling, but noted that their loss would do little harm to the overall woodland. We walked through a mixed conifer forest, through gates, over stiles — meeting dog-walkers all the way! — until we got out to the Terrace Walk at the edge of the property, where we turned left, walked half a mile, and found this most incredible folly! A tower, built on the site where King Alfred is said to have rallied his troops in AD879. Unfortunately it is under repair, so we weren't able to climb to the top of this 160ft tower.

St Peter's Pump

We then walked back along the Terrace Walk — meeting dog walkers and horse riders — and round to a field where we found St Peter's Pump, a medieval well-head that was moved here from Bristol in the 1700s. It was placed at the site of the spring that is the source of the River Stour — hence 'Stourhead'. In this field are six wellsprings, which account for the well symbols in the Hoare family coat of arms. We walked down by them (not entirely managing to miss all the cow-pats!), past the medieval fish ponds, in which a couple of dogs were having a wonderful time, and up to the 'obelisk', which was erected in 1746. We were wondering why it had such a substantial lightning conductor running from top to bottom, until we found out that it was struck by lightning in 1839 and had to be fully restored. From here, we walked across the meadow behind the house, round to the front, and back up to the visitor centre.

The visitor centre today, and various other places around the estate, were a hive of activity. Each Sunday in September (and over the Christmas period) the National Trust invites local choirs to come and sing to the crowds. We sat in the restaurant and were regaled by at least three groups, each doing a 30-minute gig. The choirs sing in five sites — Visitor reception, the Walled Garden, the Spread Eagle Inn courtyard, the Bristol Cross, and the Pantheon. There are performances running all day, from 11am, with the last ones finishing at 4pm.

Susie went back in, while Warren 'recovered' from the walk! She went in to the Walled Garden, and found the Bourne Valley Quartet, who were a very good acapella ensemble!

After a most enjoyable two days at Stourhead, we left, and returned to our layby beneath the White Horse.

Distance driven — today, 34 miles ( 55 km ); to date, 8,088 miles ( 13,017 km )