Friday, 30 May 2014

30 May 2014. <IE> Kilnamartyra, Co. Cork; Killarney, Co. Kerry —

Susie at the Toy Soldier Factory
Woke up to the sound of bird calls in the morning. A beautiful sunny day. Got ourselves moving on our way to Killarney. About 8km outside Macroom there were signs to the Prince August Toy Soldier Factory, the only such factory in Ireland. Decided to detour across to it. This turned out to be a cross-country jaunt to the little town of Kilnamartya (Cill na Martra). The factory itself is quite well set up, and they have a steady stream of tourists and school children through for a hands-on experience of casting a solder or pewter miniature. The kids love it!

From there, we went on the N22 through a pass in the Derrynasaggart Mountains and into Killarney (Cill Airne). On the way we had only one hold-up - a road accident on the way down from the pass. From the number of emergency vehicles and Gardai (Police) in attendance, it must have been major. There wasn't much left of the two vehicles involved! We didn't stop around to sticky-beak!


Ross Castle
In Killarney, we went straight to Ross Castle, a late 15th century square tower, probably built by one of the O'Donoghue Ross chieftains. The typical square keep has been fully renovated, using tools and techniques of the time. This is a different approach to the previous conservations we have seen, and is most interesting. So long as at least some of the castles are conserved, a few restorations allow us to see the way they really worked! We went on the guided tour, which was most entertaining in itself! Other parts of the castle, dating to the British "occupation" include a regimental barracks which at times was used as a prison for French, Spanish — and Irish — prisoners before their trading back and repatriation, or their execution! These parts of the castle are not considered as worthy of restoration, so little has been done with them other than to make them safe.


Lough Leane from Ross Castle
We next dropped into Tesco for a short shop, and then we went down to Muckross House. On the way down Muckross Road, we noticed a group of hotels with a huge number of motorbikes lined up outside them. Turns out that this weekend, in Killarney, there's the 8th Annual Ireland BikeFest. They're doing trips round the Ring of Kerry over the weekend for part of their entertainment — and that's just what we'll be doing in a couple of days! On Sunday there's a massed Parade through the town, so if we're still here, we might have a look in!


Muckross Friary

Muckross Friary Cloister

Muckross Friary Graveyard
On the way in to Muckross House, we went into the Muckross Friary (aka Muckross Abbey). This 4th to 6th century abbey has been partly restored by OPW — the cloister in the middle has been fully restored, and there is a magnificent yew tree growing in the middle of it. Although the friary is no longer functional, the graveyard is still being used. A delightful stop.



Approaching Muckross House
Muckross House is a magnificent mansion built in 1843 for £30,000 by Arthur Herbert, the MP for Kerry, who had made his money in copper. The Herberts entertained many important visitors here, notably Queen Victoria in 1861. The property was bought by Lord Ardilaun of the Arthur Guinness Brewing family in 1899, who rented it out to the wealthy for hunting and fishing purposes . In 1911, it was bought by Mr William Bowers Burn, a wealthy American, as a wedding gift for his daughter Maud and her Irish husband. In 1932, three years after Maud died unexpectedly, the family gifted the property and its 4,000 hectare Estate to the Irish Nation, when it became Ireland's first National Park.


Muckross House
The House is magnificent — shades of Downton Abbey — and the grounds are breathtaking. Muckross House has its own lake — Muckross Lake — separated from Lough Leane by what is called Muckross Peninsula, but which is actually a land bridge. (Lough Leane and surrounding lands were later added to the parkland, forming Killarney National Park, totalling around 11,000 hectares.) There is an arboretum, a rock garden, the lake, magnificent lawns, numerous walks to waterfalls, mountains, bridges — you name it. One could spend days here — and, indeed, we might!


Susie in the Jaunting Car
After our 3km walk in to Muckross House, we negotiated a cut-rate trip back to the van in a Jaunting Car (horse and cart!). Warren's feet were relieved! The driver was your typical talkative Irishman (is there any other kind?), and when we got to our destination, he wanted to keep on talking. The horse, on the other hand, knew it was time top go home!

After the tour, we dropped in to Macca's to catch up on email — not much there! Then it was a no-brainer as to where we would spend the night — we had found a fairly secluded end of the National Park Car Park, so we went back there and settled in.

Distance driven — today, 46 miles ( 74 km ); to date, 1,746 miles ( 2,810 km )

1 comment:

  1. Will have to remember the toy soldier shop for when Ashwyn is the right age and we have won the lottery (or saved up) to go on a trip there!
    That friary is stunning. Yew trees... I think they were often planted near grave sites because they are so long-lived that they became a Celtic symbol for immortality and rebirth and death. Very amazing trees.
    That has to be the prettiest place to be buried!

    ReplyDelete