The Ham Nomads

19 Jan 2015. <ES> Santiago de Compostela, & Ourense, Galicia —

Santiago de Compostela. A very historic city, the capital of Galicia in Spain. But to early Christian pilgrims (and even today) much more. In the cathedral here they have what they claim to be the relics — the bones — of Santiago, St James, the patron saint of Spain, the apostle James. Now, as we know, the tomb of St Peter is supposed to be beneath St Peters Basilica in the Vatican (in Rome), and Jerusalem is where all these events played out. So, to put it into perspective, to medieval Christians, and perhaps to all Catholics to this day, the three most sacred sites in the world are, in order, Jerusalem, Rome, and Santiago de Compostela.

Santiago is at the end of a long pilgrim route, called the Camino de Santiago, which runs from within France, through the Pyrenees, across the north of Spain to Santiago. In the Año Santo (Holy Year) of 1993, Santiago was visited by seven million people, 100,000 of whom had taken the Camino de Santiago. The Camino can be a very tough trek, so much so that there is an old proverb, "It is better to go five times to Rome than once to Santiago".

We were able to explore the cathedral, the third basilica on this site, begun in 1075. We weren't able to relish the full effect of its Romanesque facade, as there is a lot of repair work going on on the towers — one of the down sides of touring in the off season. On the other hand, you're not fighting the crowds of the high season!

The main chapel, in the nave of the crossing is amazing. There is a representation of Santiago dating back to the 13th century (with later silver plating) which dominates the main altar, and a set of steps allows the faithful to come up behind this image to give it the traditional embrace. Another set of steps leads down to a crypt below this chapel, where there is a silver reliquary containing, it is said, the remains of Santiago as well as those of his disciples Theodore and Athanasius.

In the main chapel is a set of ropes and pulleys that are used to hoist and swing the Botafumeiro, supposedly the largest censer in the world. It takes two priests to carry it in, and about seven to raise it into position and get it swinging!

We wandered the cathedral for an hour or so, totally gobsmacked at the detail in the little side chapels off the ambulatory that runs behind the main chapel.

We then left and walked about the town a little. As we went down a stairway under an arch, we passed a bagpiper playing traditional Galician music.

We left Santiago and set off southeastwards. We got as far as Ourense before we felt the need to stop. There were no aires in the offing around there, but we were cheeky and parked in the street near a McDonald's. We were on a slope, but managed to set ourselves up so that sleeping was comfortable. We got a bit of computer time in at Macca's, and then got down to the serious business of sleeping for the night!

Distance driven — today, 71 miles ( 115 km ); to date, 11,488 miles ( 18,489 km )