19 Nov 2014. <GB-ENG> Gloucester, Glos —

Suzie started off with another bath!! We organized a doctor's appointment in the city at 4pm. We went across to Tesco, basically to get a paper, then came back to the hotel and left for town. You can take the 12 or 12A bus into town, and it drops you in Eastgate Street, very near the centre of everything.

First port of call — a walk up Eastgate Street, left into Southgate Street and into the Visitor Information Centre, mainly for a good map of the central city.

Tomb of Edward II

Tomb of Roger, Duke of Normandy

Then we walked down to the Cathedral. Amazing. Here is where William the Conqueror ordered the compilation of the Domesday Book, and it is one of the best preserved of the cathedrals in England, mainly because they were able to point out to Henry VIII that Offa, Prince of Mercia, and Edward II, as well as Robert, Duke of Normandy, eldest son of William the Conqueror, were all buried there. This convinced Henry not to dissolve the Cathedral, but to make it the centre of a new Church of England see based in Gloucester — it is one of the six former abbeys refounded as cathedrals under King Henry VIII. We wandered the cathedral, just wondering at its magnificence.

The Quire is the current core of the cathedral, with most services being held here. (The nave is just too big, and the congregation would be lost in its sheer volume.) Under the royal patronage of King Edward III, the original Norman arcade was shaved back to allow for a stone screen to be constructed on its inner surface. They removed the apse and the roof, and continued the screen walls up to new heights, and topped the whole with a magnificent lierne vault 27 metres above the floor. Replacing the apse, they erected a rectangular east end to contain a magnificent stained glass window, 22 metres high and 12 metres wide — the second-largest medieval stained-glass window in any British church. The glass dates to the middle of the fourteenth century.

But the cathedral is a living building. There are modern stained glass windows, the newest of which is in the South Ambulatory Chapel, and dates back to 1989. (The Cathedral was built under Abbot Serlo, with the foundation stone laid in 1089, and this window was part of the 900-year anniversary commemoration.)

Another window of special significance to anyone who has sung major English church music is the one commemorating Herbert Howells, which portrays four anthems of his. The window beside it is rather sweet, a memorial to Herbert Brewer, organist at the cathedral from 1897 to 1928. It depicts four angels making music, and captioned respectively "Religioso", "Allegro", "Adagio" and "Marziale" — cute!

The juxtaposition of the old and the new is nowhere more striking than behind the altar in the Lady Chapel. Here a medieval wall, clearly showing the vicissitudes of age, has three modern canvas panels set into it, representing "Crucifixion", "Pietà" and "Resurrection".

We had lunch in the Cathedral coffee shop — they serve a "Pilgrim's Pie" closely based on the fare served to pilgrims 800 years ago — delicious.

As we came away from our lunch, we were in the cloister. This is the first time we have experienced a cloister whose walks are fully enclosed, with walls pierced by stained-glass windows (and doorways, of course) separating the walks from the central cloister garth. The walks have a fan-vaulted ceiling which, at 650 years old, is the oldest of its kind anywhere in the world! Another claim to fame for the cloister walks is that they feature as part of Hogwarts in the Harry Potter films!

As we left the cathedral, we walked up College Court, where we found the House of the Tailor of Gloucester. The book The Tailor of Gloucester by Beatrix Potter was reportedly her favourite, and is based on a true story about the local tailor. The Museum and Shop's website summarises it succinctly:

"Closing his shop at Saturday lunchtime with a waistcoat cut out but not sewn together, he was surprised to discover when, on the Monday morning he opened the shop again, to discover that apart from one button hole, the waistcoat had been sewn together. A tiny note was pinned to the button hole which read, 'no more twist'." In fact, the tailor's apprentices came back during the weekend and completed the work (but for that last buttonhole), but they never admitted to it, so the story got about that the fairies had come to the party. Beatrix simply retold the tale, substituting mice for the fairies. But her watercolours reproduced in the book are recognisably this very shop!

We went back to Eastgate Street, and to the doctors' clinic (the GHAC). After a long consultation — which was mainly the time needed to actually prepare the prescriptions — we came away with what we needed. And Dr Raj gave us a few tips about places to visit in Turkey!

After this, we took the bus back to the Hotel, had dinner in the van, and then adjourned to our room for the night.

Distance driven — today, 2 miles ( 3 km ); to date, 9,802 miles ( 15,775 km )

18 Nov 2014. <GB-ENG> Gloucester (Orchard Hotel), Glos —

Woke up in the van, ready to go searching for a place to stay. Warren went into the Orchard Hotel to ask for advice, only to find that last night's closure was due to "a misunderstanding", and that they were still open for business. So we booked in for the next six days, with an option to extend if we need to.

The place is rather low key, but very comfortable. One big bonus — a big bathtub! The Hams took full advantage of it to have their first real soak in seven months! Walking distance to Huilin's, when we finally leave the van there, and plenty of local shopping. The buses in to central Gloucester are only about 100 yards from the door. We think we can manage!

We went down to the local Boots (the huge British pharmacy chain) to find out which doctors we could visit to get prescriptions for our medications — we are approaching the end of our current supply. They put us on to the Quedgley Medical Centre (in the same road), but they couldn't help us — they pointed us towards the GHAC (The Gloucester Health Access Clinic) in central Gloucester, where we will go tomorrow.

After this, we had a day of hedonism, going into the hotel, having long baths, getting onto the internet, and doing a bit of sorting of files. Sheer luxury, after 7 months in the van! We are still eating dinner in the van — the Hotel only provides breakfast, and we are well used to cooking and eating in the van.

Distance driven — today, 1 miles ( 2 km ); to date, 9,800 miles ( 15,772 km )

17 Nov 2014. <GB-ENG> Stratford-upon-Avon, Warw; retrieval to Gloucester (Huilin's), Glos —

We had planned to leave Stratford and limp our way apprehensively towards Gloucester. Warren had been into town to buy he makings for lunch, just in case we ended up eating on the edge of the road. We got 1 kilometer! The alternator belt came off before we even got out of Stratford. As we were just outside Morrison's, we pulled into their car park and phoned RAC, who were with us within 15 minutes — and it was the most friendly chap who had helped us out twice before! We decided that the van was too unreliable to drive to Gloucester, so we arranged for "recovery" to Gloucester — 10 miles for free, then £7 per mile. Not a bad taxi service for an ailing van!

We got to Huilin's after a lovely 75-minute drive in a very comfortable cabin. Lunch time! Nobody there! The RAC man dropped us off in the driveway, and we waited for Richard to get back — having a driveway lunch (rather than a roadside lunch) while we waited. The van was bracingly cool (10°), having been in the airstream on the tray of the truck for 31 miles.

Richard arrived and started looking at the van. After a while, we elected to walk down to the nearby McDonald's, to keep out of his hair, to get a bit of internet time (and to charge the computer — a good move as it turned out) and to get into the warm. While we were there, we phoned the Orchard Hotel, only about a mile away in Olympus Park, to arrange accommodation for the next few nights. We returned to Huilin's at 5pm to find the van ready (with reservations) and a report:

1. The alternator belt had snapped — has been replaced with an automotive belt of the right dimensions.
2. The battery is stuffed — not holding charge properly.
3. The alternator is only putting out 50% of what it should — needs replacing.
4. The engine block should be back on Wednesday.
5. The man who was to grind the crankshaft has decided to go on holiday as of today, so Richard is lining up someone else.

We are to check back with him on Friday, and should be fully back on the road next week sometime.

So we took the van and went round to the Orchard Hotel, getting there at 6pm. Would you believe that we were informed that the place had been closed by Administrators at 5:30pm, so we had nowhere to go. But Warren, in his usual cheeky form, asked that since they were closed, could we park there for the night. So, with their permission, here we stayed.

Distance driven — today, 6 miles ( 9 km ); to date, 9,799 miles ( 15,770 km )

16 Nov 2014. <GB-ENG> Stratford-upon-Avon, Warw —

Decided to leave any travel to tomorrow — not confident in the van's reliability — so today we knew that the PictureHouse in Stratford was showing Hermitage Revealed, a film taking you through the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg. We decided to go in and see it — an 11.15 am session in a small high definition theatre. We aren't sure if we will be getting to St Petersburg, so this was a little bit of 'insurance'. One thing we were amazed at is the amount sheer hoarding that has taken place there, and how much of it is not on display — Catherine the Great's carved gem collection, for instance, probably the most magnificent in the world, resides in closed cabinets in the bowels of the building.

After this, we did very little, simply getting on to the internet at McDonald's (and recharging the computer), then returning to the van for the night. We had Cottage Pie for dinner, watched a couple of episodes of Lewis, and then to bed.

Distance driven — today, 3 miles ( 5 km ); to date, 9,793 miles ( 15,761 km )

15 Nov 2014. <GB-ENG> Stratford-upon-Avon, Warw —

Another night in the Leisure Centre car park. Suzie had a restless night last night, and is aching today. Hopefully it's just a 24-hour virus, but a little TLC is called for!

Warren went in to McDonald's to catch up on the blog. Bought the paper and some rolls before going back to the van. Found Suzie lying in bed hugging her hot water bottle. Well, we were always going to have a quiet day! Warren went back out to buy a USB lead and some knives — the plastic-handled ones that had come with the van were snapping at the handles. Well, that won't happen with solid stainless-steel ones!

Tested the van at 4pm — a suspicious smell of rubber was coming from under the bonnet!

Suzie wasn't up to cooking dinner tonight, so Warren had to step in. Then we watched a couple of episodes of Lewis before tucking ourselves in for the night.

Distance driven — today, nil ; to date, 9,790 miles ( 15,756 km )

14 Nov 2014. <GB-ENG> Stratford-upon-Avon, Warw —

Winter is icumen in! Swete sing robyn!

Today started off wet and dull, but it really turned into a nice day. Warren's shiner is reaching magnificent proportions!

We went into Stratford, tried to buy movie tickets but they weren't open yet, did a little shop at Morrison's, went back to the cinema and this time were able to get tickets for the 12:15 session. Drove down to the Leisure Centre car park, had an early lunch in the van (realised we had forgotten to have breakfast!), then walked up to the theatre for the show.

The Imitation Game is based on the story of Alan Turing at Bletchley Park - remember, we visited there a couple of months ago. We thought this film would be a great reminder of this visit, and we weren't wrong! We were rather pleased that the exterior of the house in the film looks as if it actually is Bletchley, as does the commander's office and the hallway you just get to glimpse behind it. The story has been slightly simplified for the movies, but it is essentially the story of the cracking of the Enigma code by Alan Turing and his team — although in the film it looks as if there are only half a dozen, rather than the thousands that were actually thrown at the task. But a most enjoyable film, especially if you already know what it is all about! Benedict Cumberbatch and Keira Knightley really do the film justice!

The Avon by night

Our lonely van waiting for us in the car park!

We went into Macca's after this, to catch up on internet. By the time we emerged, the daylight had gone, so we went back to the van to watch the first episode of series three of Elementary and a couple of episodes of Due South before calling it a day.

We have decided to remain in Stratford until Sunday morning, and then try to make the 30 miles to Gloucester before the van gives us any more trouble. (Do you get the impression that we don't exactly trust the van right now?) If we have to park on the doorstep of Hulins' Garage, so be it!

Distance driven — today, nil ; to date, 9,790 miles ( 15,756 km )

13 Nov 2014. <GB-ENG> M40, & M40 Banbury Rd, & Temple Grafton, Warw —

Warren's shiner is progressing!

We decided to be a little brave and go eastwards to a couple of sites we had missed in our travels. Didn't quite work out that way. We were travelling on the M40 when Suzie noticed the alternator warning light on the dashboard, and very quickly after that we drew to a forced halt. Luckily we had phone coverage, so a call to the RAC, and a priority Motorway response from them had a rescue mechanic and a tray tow-truck with us in about 45 minutes. They couldn't work on the van where we were, but they loaded us up and took us to a service area a couple of miles down the road.

The mechanic looked under the hood and, you guessed it, alternator belt troubles. The belt was not on its pulleys, but it was a little different this time — the belt was intact, and had just been thrown off. It was totally unharmed, so the man was able to refit it, and we were on our way. But on test, the alternator wasn't charging unless the revs were somewhat higher than idle, so Warren had to sit in the van for half an hour (with audio-book in his ears) to make sure we had enough charge to restart the van. This done, we went into Burger King in the Service Area, charged the computer so we had something to watch tonight. All in all, we spent four hours in the Welcome Break Service Area (near Grayston) before we moved on — a lot better than the M40 emergency lane!

We must say that the RAC has been absolutely marvellous for us. Not only have they rescued us a number of times, but the people who have come have been cheerful, chatty — they've made us feel welcome and safe, and better ambassadoers for the UK you couldn't hope to find. Not that some of them aren't looking enviously at the Australian weather!

We revised our travel plans, and went back to our layby at Alcester — we were going to go further towards Gloucester, but night had fallen by now (the days are getting a lot shorter) — and we didn't want to be searching for a stopping spot after dark. Anyway, we have now decided to go into Stratford tomorrow to see The Imitation Game at the Cinema.

Distance driven — today, 8 miles ( 13 km ); to date, 9,790 miles ( 15,756 km )