26 Jul 2014. <GB-SCT> Huntly, & Fyvie, Aberdeenshire —

Distance driven — today, 59 miles ( 95 km ); to date, 5,088 miles ( 8,189 km )

Today we only had two planned destinations — Leith Hall and Fyvie Castle. These two NTS sites, both in Aberdeenshire, are related as well because of their links with the Leith family.

Leith Hall, located about 6 miles south of Huntly, was originally constructed as a tower house in about 1650 by James Leith. This original construction remains as the north wing of the hall, but there have been about 300 years of additions since then, and the place is now a genteel country mansion. The gardens which surround it are definitely worth walking, especially the walled garden, which is magnificent, with spectacular plantings to produce a gamut of colour. Other parts of the gardens, which were 'modernised' in the 1980s, are being restored to their late 18th century splendour — even the rocks that were removed from the rockeries have been located and are being returned to their original positions with the aid of numerous photographs taken before that were disturbed. The house itself was gifted to the trust, complete with all its contents, in the 1950s, when the last remaining Leith-Hay had no direct descendents to bequeath it to. It is thus an important 'family document', preserving intact all the furnishings, art collections and paraphernalia belonging to the family.

In the Leith Hall Gardens

Fyvie Castle

Fyvie Castle, just out of Fyvie, and about 27 miles drive WNW from Leith Hall, has an 800-year history. The construction of its five towers have been attributed (falsely but for the last two) to five of the families who have owned the castle over time — Preston, Meldrum, Seton, Gordon and Leith. We won't go into the full history of the place, but let it be said that this is what everyone thinks of as a Scottish manorial castle.

The building and the grounds were being used for a wedding as we arrived, but fortunately the place is so big that they were able to continue running tours even while the wedding was coming to a close. During the tour, we went into the room where the wedding had been held. Even though the furniture had been somewhat rearranged to accommodate the function, these two rooms (the Drawing Room and the Gallery) were absolutely mind-blowing. They are adjoining, and the large doors can be opened to make one huge room, suitable for concerts (which were their use when in the hands of the Leith family) or weddings. The old musicians' gallery in the Gallery has been revamped to house a pipe organ by Norman and Beard. Beneath this there is a smaller pipe organ and a grand piano. Must relate something from the guidebook about this room...

"It was in this room that Queen Victoria Eugenie of Spain heard the pipers and fiddlers play Scottish reels. Her foot began to tap. She could not resist — after all she was the granddaughter of Queen Victoria and had often danced at Balmoral Castle. The King demurred, pointing out that it was contrary to all precedent for a Queen of his country to dance in public. 'You can refuse me nothing on my honeymoon', she replied, and, before the astonished eyes of the Spanish courtiers, she danced the night away."

These rooms are reached from the front entrance via the Great Stair, a wheel stair, the finest in Scotland, which was built in the late 1500s by Alexander Seton, Earl of Dunfermline, Chancellor of Scotland. This magnificent stair has a radius of ten feet, sufficient for the later owners the Gordons to ride their horses to the top to satisfy a wager!

We then drove south from Fyvie Castle towards tomorrow's first destination, Pitmedden Garden. We stopped short, in a layby, which will leave us about half an hour to drive tomorrow.

As we relax in the van the rain, totally absent for the past few hot summer days, is gently pattering on the roof of the van.

25 Jul 2014. <GB-SCT> Ardesier, & Inverness, Inverness; Elgin, & Lossiemouth, & Keith, Moray —

Woke up in Ardersier, had a partial breakfast before going into Inverness to do a little shopping, for Warren to visit Starbucks to get a little internet time, while Susie went into the high street to look for a little novelty present we had seen a while back — we thought it was in Inverness (and were to be proved to be wrong!!)

Warren couldn't find Starbucks, so settled for Macca's, and got in 45 minutes of blogging, enough to put up only one day (July 21, with Dunvegan Castle and the seals), but it was a big one. Better luck next time.

Having restocked the larder, we then set off for Elgin, getting there near lunchtime. The Tourist Information Centre is in the public library, and the gentleman there couldn't have been more helpful! We asked him where would be a good place to sit and have lunch, with a good view. He suggested Lossiemouth, a seaside town about 8 miles north, so off we went.

Well, a beautiful seaside town with a good sandy beach, fine hot weather — where was the rest of the population of Moray but at Lossiemouth. In spite of this, we easily found a park right by the beach and settled in for a lazy lunch. We were wondering why everyone and his dog was walking past us with an ice-cream cone, until when we were setting off, we passed an ice-cream shop just round the bend.

We were intrigued, as when we were coming into Lossiemouth we noticed what appeared to be a large dark cloud on the horizon. Turns out this was smoke from a fire across the Moray Firth — probably from somewhere near Cromarty, where we were the other day. By the time we left, Lossiemouth was shrouded in white smoke!

As we were coming up to Lossiemouth, we noticed Spynie Palace just off the road. Decided to give it a look-see on the way back. This was the residence of the medieval bishops of Moray. Although the original bishop's palace existed on the site from the early 13th century, the existing Tower House was built in the late 1400s. It's a ruin today, but the conservation work done here is fascinating. Instead of providing a roof for the main keep, for example, a fine wire mesh has been stretched over the opening to keep out animal life. The floors have not been reconstructed, but instead, sections at the side of each floor (all on the eastern side) have been reconstructed, with timber railings to prevent any accidents — it's as if there has been a balcony provided at each level so we can view the place properly. The original stairs have been kept where possible, but any lacunae (and there were many!) have been replaced with good solid modern concrete steps.

We went up to the top of the tower and looked towards Lossiemouth, we could see the whole horizon was a smoke cloud spreading 120° (or one third of the whole way) round us. We really must check out what's going on! The air was starting to get a little hazy even here from the smoke.

Must mention that in the ticket office/gift shop Susie spied exactly the novelty present she had been trying to find in Inverness earlier on today — who says that serendipity doesn't play a part!?

It was coming on to 5pm when we left, and we decided to light out towards Huntly and, beyond it, to Leith Hall, an NTS site we want to visit tomorrow. We got a little beyond Keith, about half an hour short of Leith Hall, when Susie spied a wonderful shaded layby fully off the road, so we pulled in for the night.

Distance driven — today, 59 miles ( 95 km ); to date, 5,088 miles ( 8,189 km )

24 Jul 2014. <GB-SCT> Lochcarron, Wester Ross; Glen Shiel; Loch Ness, Inverness; Ardesier; Moray —

Wang in midgie net
fresh from
slashing bracken

Today we took our leave of Kay and Wang.

First however we went in to the local medical clinic, saw the doctor and told her our story. She was able to give us 2 months' private prescriptions for the drugs we need (on the basis of a letter from our local GP), to be filled further down the track when our supplies are running low. We will need to do this on a regular basis to ensure we don't run out of our medications.

Warren went home, and Kay and Susie went on a woodland walk down to near Strome Castle — Susie really needs her daily walk! Then we all got back together at Tullich House to say our goodbyes (for now!)!

Tullich House driveway

Kay was playing golf at 2pm on the local course, so she left, then the travellers drove down to the medical centre to pick up the prescriptions, waving to Kay and her golfing companion on the golf course as we went by.

We then drove out over by now well-known paths, back through Glen Shiel, past Loch Ness, skirting Inverness, out to Ardersier where we knew a very comfortable overnight parking place was waiting for us. (This was by no means out of our way, as we wanted to get towards Elgin to pick up some tourist information, then on through Aberdeenshire, where we had a number of NTS — National Trust of Scotland — sites that interest us.)

Distance driven — today, 117 miles ( 188 km ); to date, 4,948 miles ( 7,962 km )

23 Jul 2014. <GB-SCT> Lochcarron, Wester Ross; The Small Isles (Armadale, Mallaiug, Rum, Canna)

Today Kay and Wang took us island hopping in the Small Isles. An early start, to catch the ferry at Armadale (where we were yesterday). We needed to be there by about 8.30 to catch the Skye Ferry to Mallaig.

Armadale to Mallaig: 8.50-9.20am

Susie and Kay
 

Mallaig Harbour Figures

We just sat on deck or moved about looking at the views. A beautiful calm day — Susie had no problems with motion sickness! At Mallaig we had a little time to walk around to the shops and look around, but had to get back to catch the next ferry.

Mallaig to Rum: 10.15-11.35am

Rum Castle

This run was characterised by the constant noise of car alarms going off on the car deck! Some people just can't figure how to disable a car alarm for a ferry crossing! Another relaxing run, just chatting and watching the scenery pass by. Only the passengers for Rum disembarked, and we remained on board for Canna.

Rum to Canna: 11.50am-12.45pm

Another longish leg. As we rounded the north of Rum, we saw a wrecked ship — apparently a French trawler which came to grief about two years ago. Obviously well built, as it hasn't even started to break up!

At Canna we had a couple of hours to wander around, have lunch, whatever. We walked through the village and found a spot at the local post office to have a picnic lunch. The post-office is indistinguishable from a garden shed, except for a post box outside, and a satellite antenna behind it which serves the telephone booth a few feet away. Wang informs us that the telephone number here — at least, when he first visited the island — was Canna 1. We were possibly ill advised in our choice of lunch spot, as we had just come off the ferry — and so had the mail. So the postmistress came along to deal with the mail, and we had to move from our seats on the Post Office steps!

The girls then went for a little walk a bit further on, and found an old church (still in use) and an island life museum in an old dairy. Wang went back a little to the cafe for a cup of coffee, and Warren went into the house of John Lorne Campbell, the gentleman who passed the Island of Canna into the hands of the National Trust.

He was an early sound recorder of Gaelic speech and song. The Girls in the meantime did a circuit of the garden of this house, which has been especially developed to attract bees, butterflies and moths.

We started back towards the ferry, on the way dropping in to an old stone church by the road.

Canna to Rum: 3.00-3.55pm

The trip back to Rum was a dozy time for the gentlemen, whereas the two girls spent most of the time at the railings in deep conversation.

Rum to Mallaig: 4.05-5.25pm
On this leg we were entertained part of the way by a couple of porpoises swimming in the Cuillin Sound — to far away and too elusive to get any photos, however.

Mallaig to Armadale: 6.00-6.30pm

Kay and Wang

This time we chose a shady spot on the front deck so we could watch the world go by in comfort! All in all, a most pleasant day, relaxing with friends!

Back at Armadale, and we drove back over roads we had been on a couple of times before, roads that were lined primarily by pines, spruces and larches. Susie was getting a lesson from Wang (at her request) as to how to identify each. After this extensive lesson, I can only say that any correct identification of these species on her part is still purely by chance!

Back home, and we settled in for another lovely dinner of venison cannelloni, washed down by a nice drop of red! And fro dessert, freshly-picked blackcurrants, yoghurt and icecream. Yum!

Settled down to watch a wee bit of the Glasgow Games opening ceremony before retiring for the night.

Distance driven — today, nil ; to date, 4,831 miles ( 7,774 km )

22 Jul 2014. <GB-SCT> Isle of Skye; Kyle of Lochalsh; Strathcarron; Lochcarron, Wester Ross —

Started off with a walk into the hills — not far, just up to the foothills and the first major rise, but enough for about an hour's walk. Passed some lovely cascades, and the hills are really beautiful in the morning — and any other time!

Mallaig Ferry leaving from Armidale

Armidale Castle

We then drove down south, turning down the A851 to Armadale. At Armadale, went into the Castle. We had been there last time, in 2007, and little has changed. The castle itself is still a sad ruin. We discovered it was intentionally abandoned only about 80 years ago and left to the elements — what a waste! The grounds are magnificent, and we wandered here for an hour or so before leaving to go and discover what lay further down the road (not far) towards the ferry terminal.

Lily pond at Armidale

We found The Bay Pottery just short of the terminal — it was closed for lunch, so we didn't catch up with the Sydneysider, its owner, who we met and chatted with last time — but we have refreshed our memories of 2008.

Soon after we had driven off Skye, we noticed a viewing point on our right. Didn't seem to be much of a view, so we stopped to find out what was going on. Turns out that, just through the woodland that hides Loch Alsh from the road there is a memorial to Donald Murchison, Colonel in the Highland Army of 1715, who "successfully defended and faithfully preserved the lands of Kintail and Lochalsh from 1715 to 1722 for his Chief William, the exiled Earl of Seaforth". The monument was erected by his descendants in 1863, and restored in 1928. This is the second restored monument we have visited in two days, the other being that of Flora MacDonald yesterday! Except that this one probably succumbed to the elements, rather than to the grabbing hands of tourists!

From here we went on to our viewing point at South Strome, to have afternoon tea overlooking Loch Carron, before proceeding on to again meet up with Kay and Wang at Tullich House. More gossip to catch up on — do the girls ever run out??

Distance driven — today, 82 miles ( 132 km ); to date, 4,831 miles ( 7,774 km )

21 Jul 2014. <GB-SCT> Isle of Skye —

Still on Skye. This morning, we drove a couple of miles from our overnight stop and came upon two points of interest in the same place — the Monument to Flora MacDonald (remember — she was the one who whisked Bonny Prince Charlie 'over the sea to Skye') and the Skye Museum of Island Life, a series of crofts that have been set up so demonstrate the way the people of Skye lived about a hundred years ago.

Flora MacDonald's monument is in the Kilmuir Graveyard (Cladh Chille Mhoire) up the hill behind the museum. Actually, it's not entirely the original monument — there was a marble slab over the MacDonald family mausoleum placed there in 1831, but "every fragment of this memorial has been carried away by tourists" — the slab was reconstituted in 1955! The cross itself also appears to be a reconstruction, as there is a stone fragment suspiciously similar to part of the top of the cross lying in the ground near the foot of the tomb.

The Skye Museum of Island Life is refreshingly downbeat. The crofts are in superb condition — at least one is original. The collections of items within each — the croft itself, the smithy, the dairy, the ceilidh house (meeting/party house), and so on — are pretty comprehensive and well displayed. While we were there, the inevitable tourist buses arrived, and we found ourselves wandering the place with people from a P&O cruise.

By the way, the view from the museum is out to the northwest, towards the Outer Hebrides. Spectacular!

From the museum, we continued southwards down the western side of Trotternish Peninsula (at the top of Skye), and came upon the town of Uig (pronounced oo-ig or, for the phonetically literate, u:'ig). Another spectacular view. (Is it becoming clear that the description 'spectacular' is appropriate throughout Skye?)

After this, we continued southwards to Portree (mainly to get a paper), then we did another circuit, this time out to Dunvegan. Good choice (again)! Dunvegan Castle is a most photogenic site, it has a beautiful garden to wander through, but more especially, Loch Dunvegan is the permanent home of a colony of over 300 seals, who had been calving only three weeks earlier, so there were a lot of youngsters about. We went out on 45 minute cruise in a little dinghy, up close and personal with the seals, and also with some egrets.

In the garden

On the way — Loch Harport

After this, we drove down to the Cuillins, where we found a layby near Bheinn Breac, where we put up for the night with the intention of a little walk in the Cuillins first thing in the morning. (Bheinn Breac may not be a Munro, but it is a Marilyn.)

Distance driven — today, 74 miles ( 119 km ); to date, 4,749 miles ( 7,643 km )