7 Oct 2014. <GB-ENG> Stratford-upon-Avon, Warw —

Another day wandering Stratford. (We are still waiting for word about the engine.) Went out to a Morrison's and shopped, then returned to the Leisure Centre Car Park. This time we had to park a little differently, as the rear section (for caravans) has been closed for a few weeks — there's a "Mop Fair" in town, and the carnies have booked the back part out for the duration. No problems — plenty of room elsewhere.

What's a "Mop Fair"? you say. Stratford Mop Fair has its origins in hiring agricultural and domestic labour, set out during the reign of King Edward III. The date is set for 12th October and is only moved if the 12th October falls on a Sunday. In the past, farm workers, labourers, servants and some craftsmen would work for an employer from October to October. At the end of the employment they would attend the annual mop fair dressed in their best clothes and carrying an item showing their trade. For example, a servant with no particular skills would carry a mop head, which lead to the name 'mop fair.' Stratford Mop has an associated 'runaway mop' just over a week later. Traditionally this is from the need for employers to reconsider and re-hire any staff before committing to a full year's work. We don't know if all this still happens, or if it is just an excuse to have a fun fair in the town for a couple of weeks, but we might still be here to find out on Friday when it starts! Oh, by the way, there are other Mop Fairs, but apparently Stratford is the only city in the UK that still closes off its main streets for the event!

After we had walked about town for a while (and posted off some parcels), we went back to the van do do a bit more organisational work. Warren went out to take a few more pictures around town — and dropped in for a coffee at the Shakespeare's Birthplace (purportedly to check how Shakespeare Aloud, the performing group there, work with the three members they have during the week, rather than just two over the weekend).

After tea, we watched the last two episodes of Cranford before settling in for the night.

(Some more shots around Stratford)

Distance driven — today, 37 miles ( 60 km ); to date, 8,390 miles ( 13,503 km )

6 Oct 2014. <GB-ENG> Stratford-upon-Avon, Warw —

For most of the day, a bit of a nothing. The weather was not particularly good — cold and showery — but we went into Stratford for a little shopping.

But at the end of the day — Wow! First we went to a pub, the Hole in the Wall, whose specialty is pizza. We had a delicious meal, went to a Gelateria with a selection of 32 flavours for an ice-cream to finish the meal, as we wandered across to the Royal Shakespeare Theatre for a preview performance of Love's Labours Won; or, Much Ado About Nothing. As for the title, we're not so sure — Love's Labours Won is the famous "lost" play. The Royal Shakespeare Company has taken the punt that it was an alternative title for Much Ado, but there's really no evidence to support this — although the plot of the play certainly fits in with their assumption. They're doing this in part to pair it with Love's Labours Lost, which will be performed in alternate performances throughout the season — which lasts a full six months!

The play is a delight, the performance stunning, and the set spectacular. The designers spent a lot of time at the National Trust property Charlecote Park, a few miles down the road, and they have replicated parts of the place in miniature for the set.

The interior of the theatre itself is a modern interpretation of the Globe in size and layout, but it is a fully modern theatre. For a start, it's roofed in, and has a full lighting grid beneath the roof. And the folks in the stalls don't have to stand — it's very comfortable.

We had a wonderful night with the Royal Shakespeare Company, and then returned to the van. It was magic walking through Stratford, past Tudor buildings after having enjoyed a wonderful -- one could even say faultless -- production by the Royal Shakespeare Company!

Distance driven — today, 3 miles ( 5 km ); to date, 8,353 miles ( 13,443 km )

5 Oct 2014. <GB-ENG> Stratford-upon-Avon, Warw —

Woke up to a fine Sunday in Stratford-upon-Avon. Warren walked into town to get a haircut, to find that he was about an hour early — nothing wakes up on a Sunday, except for the High Street supermarkets, before 10am. Bought the paper and returned to the van.

The Royal Shakespeare Theatre

 

Nearing 10am, we both went out, Susie to Macca's for coffee and to catch up on email and facebook, Warren for the haircut. Missions accomplished, we linked up and went for a walk through the Riverside Market which runs every Sunday and down towards the Royal Shakespeare Company. We had decided that, if we were in Stratford-upon-Avon and there was a performance in the offing, we just had to go along. Went into the box office to find no performances on a Sunday, but tomorrow ... a preview performance of Love's Labours Won; or, Much Ado About Nothing. We bought tickets for tomorrow night. We then went back through the market, finding some interesting goodies for some of the people back home — no hints now! Oh, we also had lunch al fresco in the market — gourmet pork, leek and chilli sausages with onions in bread rolls! Yummy!

We then went back to Shakespeare's Birthplace — the tickets we bought some weeks ago last for 12 months, so we just waltzed in. Warren was hoping that the players 'Shakespeare Aloud' would be there again, as he enjoyed them so much last time. They were, and there were hardly any people watching them and making requests (after a huge party of Italians had gone through), so it was virtually a dialogue between them and Warren. Great fun! Warren had fun requesting some of his favourite bits of Shakespeare from them, and they came through with most of them!

We then went back to the van for dinner (tonight it's Chicken Jalfrezi & Pilau Rice — doesn't get much better than this!), some TV (on the computer - the production of All's Well That Ends Well, with Eve Best and Charles Edwards, at Shakespeare's Globe in 2012), and bed.

Distance driven — today, nil ; to date, 8,350 miles ( 13,438 km )

4 Oct 2014. <GB-ENG> Evesham, Worcs; Stratford-upon-Avon, Warw —

When we woke up outside Evesham, it had been raining, and the day looked somewhat dubious. We decided to go into Evesham, to Tesco (to get the paper and bread rolls for lunch), then on to Macca's for Warren to blog, pull in some viewing for tonight, and to check up on movies in Evesham or nearby. Nothing doing in movies in Evesham, but Stratford-upon-Avon had a cinema showing What we did on our holiday, a wonderful Scottish movie with Billy Connelly, David Tennant and Rosamund Pike.

We left for Stratford. Got about 2 miles before the oil alarm went off — added 3 litres — we'll be glad when this problem is resolved!! Got to the Stratford Leisure Centre car park (our old haunt), had lunch in the van, then went off to the movie theatre. It really is a cracking good film! Talk about a disfunctional family! But, with Billy Connelly's quirky sense of humour, it makes a film about a death in the family quite an enjoyable romp!

Got back to the van for dinner, moved some files around (took a bit of time), and then watched a couple of episodes of the BBC production of Elizabeth Gaskell's Cranford before retiring.

Distance driven — today, nil ; to date, 8,350 miles ( 13,438 km )

3 Oct 2014. <GB-ENG> Gloucester (Huilin's), Glos —

Today started out inauspiciously. Leaving the layby to go to Richard (to actually buy the engine) we heard a thump, and the charging warning light came on — we'd thrown the alternator belt again. We pressed on, knowing the Richard would be able to set things right once we got there - which he did.

Got on to the vendor of the engine, who was set up to send the thing once he received payment. He asked for a bank transfer sometime today, which was no problem — we could do it in Macca's on the way. You'd think it would be easy — he had given us the three things needed to do the transfer (his bank account name, its number, and a sort code). We got on to the Suncorp site to do the transfer, and the form wanted us to jump through hoops, with an IBAN number, the recipient's address, the recipient's bank and its address, and a heap of other things we didn't have. Just don't say we're not resourceful — went through a website to convert the sort code and bank account number into an IBAN, and from that to get his bank's details. His address was not really relevant to the transaction, but we got it through an internet search. Finally got it done — what should have taken 5 minutes took about an hour!

Left Macca's with the van not entirely healthy — the alternator belt is still making funny noises, but should last a couple of weeks, and at least we have a spare (Warren went over to a nearby parts place while we were with Richard and made sure of that!)

Went out to Snowshill Manor and Garden. On the way we passed through a very picturesque village, Broadway — not that much different from Broughton on the Water (and only a few miles from it).

Snowshill Manor is a place bought by the very eccentric Charles Wade on his demobilisation at the end of World War I. He was an avid collector, and wanted a place to house and exhibit his growing collection. He himself never lived in the Manor, but in the small 'Priest's Cottage' beside it. He also designed a new garden in the Arts and Crafts style. The collection is eclectic and vast. Charles's motto is on the letterbox by the front door — Nequid Pereat — 'Let nothing perish', which just about sums up the man and his collection! Charles bought objects from antique dealers, market stalls, anywhere and everywhere. The sole criterion seems to be that is had to be well crafted, well designed or colourful — and preferably all three. He was a capable architect and illustrator, and well up to the restoration of the objects. What we have is not a museum but, as the National Trust puts it, "a virtual Aladdin's Cave". The National Trust has kept to the feel of the place — the timed entry tickets to the house read "Charles Paget Wade Esq. cordially invites you to view his fantastic collection of craftsman-made curiosities and objects of beauty. You are requested to be present at the front door of Snowhill Manor any time between ... "

If you can't get the model boat
upstairs, put it in the front room!

A child's pusher, in the
shape of a Hansom Cab

The Music Room "Seraphim'
has a diverse collection

He went into town to buy a washer for a tap,
instead bought a job lot of Samurai armour!

The things you find literally hanging about
in the attic

Catherine Parr portrait
in 'Dragon'

'Dragon'
(A downstairs room)

Charles's bedroom
Upstairs in the Priest's Cottage

The Manor itself has a history, being part of the dowry given to Catherine Parr by Henry VIII (after the Dissolution of the Monasteries — it had previously been owned by Winchcombe Abbey since 821 AD). The circumstances are a little suspicious. Catherine herself chose this place from a number of properties Henry offered her, and when Henry died his widow Catherine remarried with rather indecorous haste about 2 months later, to a gentleman, Lord Dudley, from very near Snowshill — had she perhaps been developing a relationship with him well before Henry's death, at the time when he endowed her (at her request) with the property? We'll never know — a year later, Catherine herself died after childbirth, and the estate passed to him! Not that it did him much good, as he fell foul of Bloody Mary (for trying to put Lady Jane Grey on the throne in her stead), was tried for treason and beheaded! The property reverted to the crown! It then had a rather checkered history until Charles Wade bought it!

Part of the garden

Susie in the garden

The mounds in the field are 25-year-old Yellow Meadow Ant nests!

We had a pleasant time exploring Snowshill, then left to make our way towards Croome for tomorrow. We've found a deep layby off the A44 near Evesham (still in the Cotswolds), and only about 20 minutes from our destination.

Distance driven — today, 25 miles ( 40 km ); to date, 8,350 miles ( 13,438 km )

2 Oct 2014. <GB-ENG> Whitminster, & Cheltenham, Glos —

A day round Gloucester and Cheltenham, doing things for the van.

First went down to Whitminster (south of Gloucester) where we had found a van for hire — or so we thought. When we got there, there was a van in front, but the place was deserted, and the property was up for sale. Not really inspiring of confidence. So we left, and adjourned to a nearby Macca's to do a little more looking. Found a good organization, who could provide us with a van for the 3 weeks we were looking at — but we didn't finalize the deal at that time, because we still didn't know if we would need it.

We found a number of engines on the net, and put more feelers out. Phoned Richard and referred him to some of them. He will follow up, and we will keep on looking.

We left and went into Cheltenham — Warren wanted to top up his phone, and was having difficulty over the net, so Susie dropped him at an O₂ shop while she drove around the block (which wasn't as easy as we thought, because of the various one-way streets and streets closed for roadwork — no two journeys are ever quite the same). Mission accomplished, we went into Macca's to check on progress with our searches, and we phoned Richard, who wanted us to drop in so he could measure us up to finally determine whether or not he could do the job at his Bristol Road workshop. It took us a while to get to him — peak hour traffic complicated by roadworks! Got there just after 5, he measured us up and decided that Bristol Road would be okay. He also said that he had been on to one of the sources we had found, and that a reasonable engine was forthcoming. We tried to finalise payment over the phone, but the vendor was on the road. Will have to return here tomorrow to finish things off!

And so we left and returned to our A40 layby — it's becoming our home away from home!

Distance driven — today, 57 miles ( 92 km ); to date, 8,325 miles ( 13,398 km )

1 Oct 2014. <GB-ENG> Bourton-on-the-Water, & Gloucester (Huilin's), Glos —

Today was a marking time and getting-back-up-to-Gloucester day. We started off by putting in an hour at Macca's in Trowbridge, to blog and catch up on email.

We then drove northwards to Bourton-on-the-Water, a lovely village with a shallow river passing through it (the River Windrush), a large village green, many stone cottages and shops that have changed little since the 1930s, and a model of that same village, built to 1/9 scale, using the same stone. Throughout the model village the trees have been planted exactly as in the full-sized village, and they have used Bonsai-like techniques to keep them more-or-less in scale with the model. The one thing you don't have in the model is the hordes of tourists who descend on the village every day. The village is thriving, and it is all from the tourist trade!

By the way, in the Model Village they have a separate exhibition of miniature models which is quite delightful. There are miniatures of a fashion designer's establishment, of a mouse's home, of a feast with King Henry VIII, of an old man's carpentry workshop, and so on, and so on. We don't know how people find the patience to do such intricate work! There is also a collection of 1/32nd scale miniature landscapes by Mr J Constable, done over 25 years, and with each cottage represented being of architectural or historical interest. One was of Thomas Hardy's cottage in its original state, so we see it here not as it was when we visited it some weeks ago.

We didn't have time to do more in Bourton, which is a shame, as they have a Model Railway Exhibition (admittedly, closed today), a Motoring Museum and Toy Collection, a Maze, not to mention the various pubs and restaurants. But we needed to get to Richard in Gloucester, so we left at about 3.30. Met up with Richard at 4.15. He measured the van, decided that he needs to do the job at another location — we won't fit into his Bristol Road workshop — and arranged for us to check in with him on Friday. He also suggested we might like to do a little looking for replacement engines on the web — we might find something that he hasn't. Otherwise the job will take up to 3 weeks — not that we will be stuck in Gloucester for that time, as we have found a campervan rental here that seems to have no bookings for the month of October. We will check in with them tomorrow to see what we can arrange, but should have a replacement vehicle for the time ours is off the road. Wish us luck! We're overnighting in our old layby on the A40, just outside Gloucester.

Distance driven — today, 57 miles ( 91 km ); to date, 8,268 miles ( 13,306 km )